recently a friend asked for some tips for visiting Berlin. i’ve made a practice of visiting the city every summer for five years now, and while i’m no expert, i do have a few faves to pass on. without further ado – i present – my top ten. (and in no particular order)
1. Ride the 6-man bike at Brandenburg Gate and then tour the dome of the Reichstag:
the bike ride is a bargain, usually 1 euro (about $1.50) and if the driver is a character (they usually are) you’ll take a hair-raising ride around the block in front of the Brandenburg gate, narrowly missing curbs and spectators while screaming and laughing hysterically. The tour in the dome at the Reichstag (the capital) is free and quite good but be willing to wait in line up to 2 hours! (unless you’ve got a child with a stroller, then you can cut the line). free headphones are available in multiple languages which will guide your walk up and around to the top where you’ll take in a panorama of the entire city. night or day, its a worthwhile visit.
2. visit the candy display at the Galeria at Alexanderplatz: (oh yeah and check out the tv tower, the shopping mall Alexa and the world clock among other things)
Alexanderplatz is home to the iconic tv tower which once controlled the only broadcasts available to all of East Berlin. it also boasts the world clock (from ‘The Bourne Supremacy’ film) a shopping mall and a huge department store called the Galeria. visit the ground-floor of the Galeria to see, smell and taste an eye-popping variety of gummies, chocolates and other goodies. or ride the escalators to find such quintessential souvenirs as the Berlin bears or ampelmann apparel.
3. head around the corner to Hackescher Markt for bubble tea, artisan shops and the Amplemann store!
Hackescher Markt is just a few blocks from Alexanderplatz and usually boasts an outdoor market as well as a variety of artisan stores where you can window shop for all kinds of expensive and designer goods. There’s also a starbucks and a bubble tea place – you might have to ask someone to point you in the right direction from the main station. and in case you didn’t get your fill of the ampelmann at the Galeria there is a licensed ampelmann store here as well. the ampelmann is a popular icon in east Berlin – he is the little crosswalk man that indicates whether to ‘walk’ or to ‘stop’. when the wall fell they were going to change all the East Berlin ampelmann into Western ones. but the people protested and he has stayed to the delight of Berliners and visitors alike. (you might have noticed him marching across the top of my blog!)
4. gnosh at Mustafa’s and Curry 36:
Lecker! this word means ‘delicious’ in German and these two street foods most certainly are! Two of the very best versions of these foods are found on the same block next to the Mehringdamm bahn (train) station. Curry 36 makes currywurst – basically a grilled sausage sliced and topped with a tomato curry sauce that goes perfect with pommes, er fries. and Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap makes a döner kebap (a Turkish sandwich not unlike a gyro) which is worth waiting in the hour-long line for. in fact, i’d probably wait two! this particular döner is unique because it is filled with roasted vegetables that make it absolutely scrumptious. other stands usually serve only raw veggies. you can opt to add chicken, feta, and as many of the three sauces (scharf – spicy, krauter – herb, or knoblauch – garlic) as you want.
5. walk Bergmannstrasse for its funky wares, cafes, organic market and photobooth:
Just down the street from Curry 36 and Mustafa’s is Bergmanstrasse, another great place to walk, people watch, shop, or just sit at a cafe and relax. A few blocks from Mehringdamm on the left is an indoor organic market (with a public restroom!) and on the same side street is an ‘old fashioned’ black and white photo booth. a little off the beaten path, Bergmanstrasse is the perfect place to capture a less-touristy glimpse of Berlin.
6. Sachsenhausen-Oranienburg Concentration Camp: location 35 km north of Berlin:
while visiting a concentration camp might not be your first choice for a good time it is a place worth visiting both to better understand some of the history that defines the region as well as to simply remember what happened. Sachsenhausen was a Nazi concentration camp operating mainly from 1936 until 1945. While it was primarily intended for political prisoners of war it also housed people from a variety of backgrounds, lifestyles and nationalities. ‘Arbeit macht frei’, ironically the phrase: ‘Work sets you free’, is built into the main gate. This popular philosophical phrase was adopted by the nazi party and cryptically incorporated into the gates at several camps during world war II. By memorializing such places, we hope to honor the memory of those that suffered so as to never forget, or repeat these horrific events.
7. if you’re in town on a Sunday head over to the Mauerpark flea market for some bargain shopping and karaoke!
the Mauerpark (or wall park), located in the Prenzlauer Berg district, is distinct among Berlin’s green spaces as a hangout for hipsters, a canvas for graffiti art (along its ample strip of the former wall) and even a spot for nightlife in the summer. and the Sunday flohmarkt (flea market) is guaranteed to please. snack on something ethnic or organic and freshly made as you pick your way through aisles of trash and treasure. hunt for bargains and even barter for that perfect funky vintage or handmade item to remind you of your visit. or if your pocketbook is pleading take a break and step over to the lawn to watch the karaoke. you never quite know whom you’ll hear – or what they might be singing – but the crowd always has a good time. go ahead and you-tube it if you have any doubt!
8. Napol Jonska – ready to rest those aching feet, grab a bite and sneak in a little people watching?
not terribly far from the Mauerpark on kastanienallee you will find the most lovely little cafe, Napol Jonska. sit in the open window to people watch as you sip an exquisite (trust me i’m a barista) latte macchiato and deliberate over the English ‘Menue’ between sweet and savory crepes, waffles or a gelato. or select slice of curried pie or a sugary sweet from behind the counter. whatever you choose you will not be disappointed. linger quietly in the cafe or make a splash and check out the (working) old fashioned pump out front.
9. Potsdam – in the mood to explore a neighborhood of palaces and gardens?
Potsdam is a popular day-excursion for Berlin’s visitors. once known as a home to kings and emperors it offers kilometer after kilometer of scenic lawns, gardens and historically significant sites. you can get there easily by train from Berlin, a relatively short ride (24 km) outside the city. you could search out a guided tour or better yet, be your own guide (free!) and inspire your imagination as you take lots of pretty pictures.
10. Zoologischer Garten – the zoo, shopping and the bombed out church and memorial: grab a mouth-watering macaroon at a local bake-shop and get your walking shoes on!
see the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, better known as the ‘bombed out church’ as it stands today and visit the monument next door. light a candle and pray for peace. peruse some of the shops that line the square. or head over to the zoo where the animals won’t mind whether or not you ‘sprecht Deutsch’. and i’ve forgotten the name but if you find the Dunkin’ Doughnuts visit the bakery next door instead and score yourself a luscious macaroon.
I hope you visit Berlin soon, and often! even if you chance only a short stay i recommend investing in a good map. for about $10 at most tourist shops you can pick up a smartly folded map of the entire city made by Falk. its less obtrusive than traditional maps and has a transit page. with it you can venture most anywhere confidently. within Berlin, of course.
and finally, here is a slightly ridiculous ‘walking plan’ of the above itinerary. it isn’t entirely suitable for walking but it made more sense than a driving itinerary:









